BMW 7-series E23

A few hundred years ago, before Communism and Hitler and a reputation as plumbers, Poland had kings. Well, sort of. They were elected, which meant that the local lords would gather in a field and choose which of the foreign princes that showed up would serve their own interests best.
Of course, this wasn't democracy, it was anarchy. The dukes, nobles and other assorted aristocracy had their own interests at heart, and would therefore choose the weakest of the contenders to manipulate to their own whims and fancies. , The fatter, wealthier and lazier the better. These historic meetings took place in Wola, in a field outside the city proper, and it is on a road called Elekcyna, or Election Street, that I found the BMW E23.

If you've never understood BMW's confusing number system, the E codes represent every model developed, but not all E's necessarily entered production, as E stands for Entwicklung (evolution). That means that there were twenty-two models between the code's introduction in 1967, and the hulking 7-series seen here from 1977. Those ten years included the magnificently aggressive E21, the swanky businessman's E12 and the gloriously humungous E3, known as the Big Six and the direct precursor to the rotting hulk of the E23.


With a lineage as proud and noble as this, it would usually be considered a crime against history to allow a Crown Jewel to tarnish on the pavement like this matt black box, but in these circumstances, the Poles have yet again elected in Wola the least able to rule. If you know your history of Poland, there was Augustus II, elected not just for his strength but for his love of the finer arts. Beauty and power combined, he's the E3. His elected son, the foppish chinless dandy Augustus III, is the E23, who had to abdicate after unanimously being declared rubbish by his peers.

The Big Six line of BMWs was introduced as the large-scale luxury model in an attempt to rally its flag against that pretender to the throne, Mercedes-Benz, and it succeeded. The E3 earned a stalwart reputation as a heavy cruiser with sporty capabilities and Bavaria's best in terms of refinement. The sharp-faced upstart conceived to replace it was the newly-designated 7-series E23. Little is known of the E23's pre-coronation versions and prototypes, but by the time it took its seat of power it was a bloated drunkard hiding under levels of gaudy chromework and acres of leather. The rear end suffers the ignoble droop of similar period Jaguars, and the Big Six reputation of the engine was drowned by a thirsty carburretor setup that required a retainer of servants to keep the thing topped up.

If you were going to cruise from your duchy of, in Augustus' case, Saxony, and in the E23's case, Bavaria, to your newly aquired territory, then of course, you have to do it in style, and in fairness the E23 is not the ugliest offspring of BMW's loins. Unlike Prince Harry, you can at least see who its parents were, and even though you'd rather have the trimmer two-door sister, E24, the 7-series has enough heritage to know when to act regally. Power was wielded through an array of large six-cylinder engines ranging from a commanding 2.8l to an imperial 4.5l, marshalling a cavalry of 250 horses behind that aristocratic nose.

The Black Prince rusting here has already been stripped of its heraldry, with that posterior debadged. Squinting through the begrimed windows an autobox can be made out which would certainly have sapped most of the strength from even the hardiest of engines. The distinctive kidneys of 1977 were detatched from the bonnet around 1983 and added to the grille in an attempt to smarten up the sagging profile, but it wasn't enough to please the electorate. Optional extras were little more than gaudy trinkets, with electric seats and onboard computers being little more than bloated pomp and gaudy trinkets; more flesh to weigh down the already bulky form. The tow-bar on the back also betrays this more as a Shire horse than a war horse.

It would take the revenue of a small fief to bring this BMW back to its former self, but there is only so much taxing an electorate can take. It may have the required number of kidneys, but it takes a stronger than usual stomach to come with the overly rich E23, which is all gut and no glory.

Lada Niva

Most mornings, on the daily grind from the western suburb of Bemowo to the centre of Warsaw, the tram will rumble its way along, crammed with pale-faced commuters pressed armpit-to-face in grim preperation for a steady day's moaning. This is life as usual in Poland, where complaining is the national hobby.

To leave Bemowo , one has to traverse the small area called Kolo, home of the infamous Kolo Flea Market. Five days a week, Warsaw's pensioners plod their way around a bombsite of tin shacks and car boots loaded with fresh produce, arming themselves with canvas bags of potatoes and onions before cramming themselves onto the commuter trams. Why on earth pensioners need to buy their vegetables at exactly the same time the entire population is trying to get to work I have yet to figure out, but it provides ample opportunity for the workers to get theirgrumble-faces ready, and for the old harridens to prove that, with fifty years under Communism, they would be seasoned enough to win Poland a gold medal at Moaning. Bags of carrots bash the knees of sharp-suited businessmen, the heady odour of pickled cabbage mingles with the secretaries' perfumes, and the schoolkids refuse to give up their seat for 15kgs of tomatoes. What was once an uncomfortably busy tram now becomes reminiscent of Indian trains where live chickens flap around the unshod feet of dirty children. Of course, it's not that bad, but it's good enough to spoil the mood of everyone unfortunate enough to need public transport. Although when I say 'spoil the mood' I ony mean drop it from "tetchy" to "downright waspish."

At the weekend, however, the market becomes an antiques fair, where the same retired patrons hawk the last remants of Poland's heritage to tourists, opportunists and illegal exporters, who nose around the horse brass and battered silverware for the possible bargain. Prices are haggled, toothless proprieters smile and sigh, and the old family portrait is sold to supplement Grandma's meagre pension. Poland's history is traded not in gold, but in kilos of vegetable produce. One could almost believe it's a sad sight that the most treasured objects, accumulated by scrimping and saving throught the Socialist years, now slip through one's fingers for a song, but when you get a closer look the tat on sale is essentially worthless. Radios that can only pick up long-dead frequency bands, incomplete sets of cutlery and unremarkable oil paintings.

The market is surrounded by a myriad of one-way streets, a nightmare for parking but a wonderfully quiet escape from the market bustle. And it was down one of these, perched high on its rims above the other squat low family saloons, that I espied the Lada Niva.

The more affluent suburbs of Warsaw boast shiny off-roaders aplenty, parked up on the streets where the hardest driving challenge they face is the supermarket speed humps. In the slighter poorer Kolo district you wouldn't expect a Porsche Cayenne or a new Range Rover, but I certainly wouldn't expect Russia's cheapest 4x4 to be showing its lumpy appearance here either. But then again, the Niva isn't a hairdresser's excuse for a vehicle or a banker's pretentious statement. It's a rugged little shell with a weedy little engine and not even a chassis underneath to hold it all together. Christ, even a Suzuki Vitara has one of those, and yet the Niva has a semi-serious reputation as a decent off-roader.

Most of the finger-pointed laughing at the Niva is deserved. It's a cheap compromise of Fiat-derived mechanicals and Russian-developed styling, which comes together in a squat, ugly little package that is uncomfortable and slow. Something about the design makes it look like the yellow-and-red Fisher Price roller skates of the '80s.

And that may be the right comparison. Launched in 1977 as Lada's first non-Fiat, the cheapness of the Lada stands out as a defining factor which it flaunts rather than hides. Included from the dealer would have been a 21-piece tool kit for inevitable road side repairs, the interior doesn't show a single attempt at styling, and the front end is simply functional. Square hole for the radiator grill, headlights either side, indicators on top almost as an afterthought. With such sparseness, its no wonder there's no chassis underneath - box steel would be an unnecessary extra cost.

What marks the Niva out as special is the fact that all the traits that Lada attributed to simply keep the costs down and the weedy 78hp engine chugging along are now considered standard in the SUV world. Coil spring suspension and permanent four-wheel drive were only offered on Range Rovers at the time, so how the hell did a part-Italian mostly-Soviet manufacturer put this all together in one cost-efficient little package? Who knows, but its a recipe that works good enough for the Niva to still be in production, albeit in Uruguay, and for off-roading enthusiasts to still snap them up.

It's all too easy to criticise the Lada Niva, and its flaws were evident to all, but in Kolo it's one of the most valuable relics around, andeven if the rock-bottom prices don't represent their true value, it's hard to complain about a Niva when you look at its modern competition. It's not the best city car, and it's not the best off-roader. It's not pretty, and the interior is cheap, but as the forefather to modern SUVs, it's certainly a lot better than its modern offspring.